Central Kalimantan
Central Kalimantan, is the biggest Indonesian province on the island of Kalimantan. It occupies a surface of 153,800 square kilometers. It is mostly jungle (82 %), while swamps, rivers, lakes take approximately 2 % and agriculture land is about 3 %.
Palangkaraya is the capital of this province. It is located in the regency of Pandehut, on the upper reaches of the Kahayan river.
Other regencies are Kotawaringin Barat (capital Pangkalanbun), Kotawaringin Timur (Sampit), Kapuas (Kualakapuas), Barito Selatan (Buntok) and Barito Utara (Muarateweh).
Topographically, Central Kalimantan consists of three areas:
The northern area is mountainous and reaches far into the hinterland, it is difficult to reach. Transportation facilities are limited and much of the terrain is rough. Many rapids are found here.
The central area is dense and fertile tropical forest. Almost four-fifths of Central Kalimantan is made up of tropical forests, producing valuable commodities such as rattan, resin and the best woods.
Central Kalimantan has a hot and humid climate. The average temperature is 30 degrees Celsius and the annual rainfall ranges from 2776 to 3393 mm.
People and culture
Central Kalimantan is inhabited by two million people, or only eight per square kilometer.
The indigenous inhabitants are the Dayaks, comprising the sub-tribes Ngaju, Ot Danum, Ma’anyan Ot Siang, Lawangan, Katingan and others.
Ot Olong-olong and Penyawung people live in the upstream areas of the Barito and Mahakam rivers. Their livelihood is hunting, moving from one region to another. They have no fixed settlement.
Outside the Dayaks, settlers from other areas of Indonesia are also found in the province.
Three big Dayak sub-tribes live in the hinterland of Central Kalimantan. They are the Ngaju, Ot Danum and Ma’anyan.
The Ngaju initially inhabited the upstream areas of the rivers, then migrated downstream. At that time, their culture mixed with those of the others.
Like some other Dayaks in Kalimantan, especially the Ot Danum and the Ma’anyan, the Ngaju till dry lands and move from one region to another. They adhere to the old Kaharingan religion, which is a form of ancestor worship, mixed with elements of animism and dynamism.
The Ngaju people speak a language that belongs to the Barito family of languages. This language is also spoken by the Ot Danum and Ma’anyan, even by all Dayaks in Kalimantan. There are, however, minor languages, such as those of the northwest Barito area, spoken by the Ot Danum, and the southeast, which is spoken by the Ma’anyan.
The Ngaju have seen progress. Many of them living in the towns have enjoyed an education. Many of them work as government officials in South Kalimantan.
The Ot Danum inhabit the upstream regions of the Kahayan, Barito, Kapuas or Timbering Miri, in the upstream reaches of the Kahayan river.
The Ot Danum live in longhouses with sometimes as many as 50 rooms. They are called “betang”. Such houses are found near the headwaters of rivers in the Kapuas and East Kotawaringin regencies. The Ot Danum number approximately 6,000 people, which makes them the largest among the three sub-tribes in Central Kalimantan.
The Ot Danum, like other Dayaks, are known for their skill in platting rattan, palm leaves, and bamboo. Such products are made by the women, and sold in the markets in towns and cities such as Kualakapuas, Banjarmasin, and Sampit.
The men are good hunters, using simple tools. They hunt pigs, deer and wild animals in the forests.
The Ma’anyan inhabit the areas east of the Barito river and its tributaries such as the Telang, Karau, Dayu and Patai. The Ma’anyan maintain contact with Banjar (Malay) people living in the upstream regions of rivers in South Kalimantan. Along the Karau and Kayu rivers, however, the Ma’anyan associate exclusively with other Dayaks, mainly the Lawangan. The Lawangan people have been living in this region long before the Ma’anyan arrived.
Art
The art of Central Kalimantan clearly bears the marks of the Kaharingan religion, which is the traditional belief of the Dayaks in the hinterland of Central Kalimantan.
Building styles, statues, carvings and other products are related to the cultural elements of the Hindus, Chinese, and Hindu-Javanese.
Aside from their aesthetic properties, such products are appreciated for their magic value. Western elements also infiltrated the arts of the hinterland of Central Kalimantan, and have introduced new motifs to the traditional art form. The architectural style of Central Kalimantan can be seen in buildings such as the sandung, kariring, patahu and various traditional houses.
Sandung
Sandung, is a wooden building to keep the ashes of the family’s dead, after cremation.
Generally, the bigger sandung belong to members of the aristocracy, such as the descendants of chieftains. The smaller sandung are called kariring. They are found at Tuwung, in the upstream area of the Kahayan River.
The roof of a sandung is ornamented with the enggang (hornbill) or dragon motif. The enggang is a ruler’s symbol. The dragon is a symbol of the lower aristocracy, or of common people. Sandungs are found in the upstream regions of the Kahayan river, at the villages of Tuwung, Bukit Rawi (north of Palangkaraya) and Pohandut (near Palangkaraya).
Patahu
A Patahu looks like a dwelling built on high pillars to avoid attack by wild animals. Patahu houses are found at Bukit Rawi, on the Kahayan river.
A Patahu, however is not occupied by people but by the ancestral souls of the Dayaks. This structure is believed to protect the village, and therefore filled with the offerings in the form of dishes, glasses and some spherical stones.
It is considered a sacred place, and is found in almost every village in the upstream areas of the Kahayan river. This house is the center of village ceremonies.
The patahu ceremony is held once a year, and is led by the tribal chief. Accompanied by music, the offerings are placed and the chicken and pigs are killed as offerings. There is also rice. The patahu is also used as a place to pray.
Statues
Little is left of the traditional art of statue sculpting in Central Kalimantan.
The statues, representing human beings and animals, made of iron-wood, are part of the Dayak system of belief. The statues are considered to have magic powers, and are designed to ward off catastrophes. The statues are placed in the house as guardians of the sandung.
Generally, features and expressions of statues of different regions show little variety. The baluntang statues of Dayaks of the East Kalimantan, for example have more or less the same simple, expressive features and magical properties are those of West Kalimantan.
There are basically four types of statues in Kalimantan. They are those that are used in traditional ceremonies, guardian or helper statues, family statues and decorative statues.
The statue for the traditional ceremony is the most complete, and has the appearance of wearing traditional dress. They are made of iron-wood and represent a leader in complete traditional attire. On both sides of such as statues, guardian statues are usually placed.
The decorative statue is status symbol. They are made of the iron-wood and are placed on the roof of the Sandung. The hornbill, or enggang, is for chieftains, while the dragon is the symbol of the common people.
The family statue is the personification of the ancestors and members of the family who died. They are also made iron-wood, and are placed near the sandung. Such statues can be found at Bukit Rawi village, in the upstream areas of the Kahayan River.
The Crafts
Central Kalimantan is an area with a rich artistic heritage. Unfortunately, the crafts have almost disappeared.
Those that are left include weaving and embroidery, and the making of wooden masks, to be used in traditional ceremonies, war-traditional dress, weapons, women’s necklaces, belts and shirts, etc.
Other craft products are home utensils and fishing or hunting tools. These can still be found and seen in several regions, for instance, in the Regional Museum of Palangkaraya.
Betang The Dayak Longhouse
Betang is the name of the traditional Dayak longhouse in the hinterland of Kalimantan. Such houses are built on pillars that are usually more than two meters high, so a person can walk freely underneath it. A betang has many rooms often as many as all of them connected, not unlike a modern hotel, but simple.
Betangs are well suited to the traditional way of life, which places great emphasis on communal life, particularly within the family, or clan. The high pillars prevent surprise attacks by the wild animals of the forest. The most respected elder is appointed head of the betang. He is expected to set an example for the other members of the family, and preserve the group’s harmony. To the Dayaks, the betang is therefore known, not merely as dwelling, but a symbol of harmony, unity and justice.
In the hinterlands of Kalimantan, longhouses can be found that are more than a hundred years old. Today, however, lifestyles are changing, and as more and more Dayaks are adopting the habit of living in individual family homes, the longhouse is gradually becoming a symbol of passing tradition, a tourist object, more than a way of life.
Betangs are found in the hinterland, usually near big rivers. There are old betangs in Buntui village, Kahayn Hilir district; Timbering Malahui, Rungan district; Timbering Gagu, Mentaya Hulu, and in Makunjang village, in the Lahei district.
Palangkaraya
Palangkaraya is the capital of the province of Central Kalimantan. This town in the upstream regions of the Kahayan river was formerly known as the village of Pahandut in the regency of Palangkaraya.
In the local Dayak language, palangka means container; and raya means holy. Thus, palangkaraya means a holy container.
The town occupies an area of about 2,400 square kilometers and is inhabited by 90,000 people. It comprises two districts, Pahandut and Bukitbatu. Pahandut is being continuously developed. Nowadays, the town has become the center of government, trade and education of the province of Central Kalimantan.
As a province, (Palangkaraya) can easily be reached from Jakarta, Banjamasin, Samarinda, Balikpapan and other points on the island.
Regional Museum
The Regional Museum of Palangkaraya contains collections of historical and cultural interest from all over Central Kalimantan. Samples of Dayaks architecture in the form of miniature models of sandungs and patahu.
There are also statues and various samples of the local crafts of Central Kalimantan.
Tangkiling Nature Reserve
The nature reserve of Tangkiling lies approximately 34 kilometers north of Palangkaraya. Small rivers flow through the reseThe Tangkiling Tourism Park lies only five kilometers from the center of the reserve. Here, one finds Batu Banama Tangkiling, which is associated with a popular local legend. The Kereng Benkirai reserve is located in the vicinity
Kualakapuas
Kualakapuas is the capital of the Kapuas regency, south of Palangkaraya, on the Kapuas river 40 kilometers from Banjarmasin.
Telo Island
A well-known tourism object is Telo Island, a fishing village and port. The name Telo means three islands. It is pleasant site for recreation.
Gohong Rawai
Gohong Rawai is known for its beautiful and challenging rapids. Suitable for adventurers, white-water rafters and nature lovers.
Rungan
The gold mines of Teweh and Batu Api, Rungan district, are interesting sites to be visited. In this region, gold mining is a major source of livehood for the people, who pan for the metal in the old traditional manner.
Gold deposits are found in many places in Central Kalimantan.
Bukit Rawi
In Bukit Rawi, north of Palangkaraya, in the upper reaches of the Kahayan river, are a sandung and a sapunduk, wooden structures in which the ashes of the dead are kept. Sapunduk is a statue which serves as pillar. This pillar is also used to tie buffaloes during certain ceremonie Kualakapuas one can find the remains of old settlement. The place is also good for boating and recreation. Not far away is Pasir Putih in Lupak.
Buntoi
The longhouse at Buntoi is more than 100 years old. The house is made of iron-wooden of palm fiber. It is now used by the descendants of the original occupants.
Buntoi is located in the Kahayan Hilir district, and can be reached from Banjarmasin by motorboat via Pulang Pisang. It is also can be reached from Palangkaraya via Pulang Pisang. The trip takes one day. Pantar and Sandung statues are found in front of the longhouse.
Tumbang Malahui
The longhouse at Tumbang Malahui, in the Rungan district, was built in 1911 by Ongko Uwan, together with six of his relatives and son-in-law, assisted by 400 workers. The house took a year to complete. The length of the house is 30 meters. The walls are made of tree bark, and the pillar is called bakas or sulung. Others are called penyambut, tengah and bungsu. A sandang statue is found in front of the house.
The place can be reached from Palangkaraya overland up to Tangkiling, then over the river to Timbering Jatuh, Rungan district. Then continue to Timbering Malahui, which takes two hours. A trip from Tangkiling to Timbering Jatuh, takes 10 hours by klotok boat. The same trip takes three hours by speedboat. banama
An old boat, or banama, believed to have once belonged to the Banjar kingdom, is found on the Parigi river, a tributary of the Kahayan, at Kantan, Pandih Batu, Kapuas regency. The length of the boat is 30 meters and the width eight meters. Other antiquities are found in the surroundings.
Banama
The banama is believed to be many hundred of years old. The areas around Pulang Pisau and Pangkuh in the downstream regions of the Kahayan river, were once part of the Banjar kingdom.
Muarateweh
Buntok is the capital of the Barito Selatan regency. It is a small town on the banks of the Barito River, which can be reached over land via Tanjung, the capital of the Tabalong regency, in South Kalimantan. Or by boat from Kualakapuas.
The distance between Buntok and Tanjung is 150 kilometers via the small town Ampah. Part of the trip must be made on foot because of the bad roads.
Buntok
Buntok sits on the road junction between Banjarmasin, inFrom Buntok, one can visit Liang Saragi, a cave with 17tunnels. It is very attractive cave and is much visited by the people. It is a located in Tamiang Layang a small town in the Dusun Timur district bordering the province of South Kalimantan.
Attractive hot-water-spring are found in Ampah, 70 kilometers from Buntok Tanjung. Liang Ayah is nearby.
Lake Melawen
Lake Melawen is five kilometers away from Buntok, near the airstrip. Small motorboats are available for boating or fishing.
Melawen can be reached From Palangkaraya or Banjarmasin. It can also be reached by sailing up the Barito river while enjoying the scenery. The lake is a popular holiday resort.
Muarateweh Muarateweh is the capital of the Barito Utara regency. It is located north of Buntok, and can be reached by sailing down the Barito river. The distance is 150 kilometers.
Muarateweh is quite busy and big. The town has two movie theaters. Small aircraft maintain the links with other towns in the province.
River transport is also available. A busy terminal serves both river and land communications.
The longhouse of Makonjun stands in Makonjun village, Lahei district, not far from Muaralahai. It can be reached by motorboat from Muarateweh in two hours. The iron-wood house was built in 1930. It is 100 meters long. The Makonjun longhouse is quite modern as Dayak longhouses go.
Purukcahu
In Purukcahu, on the Barito river, the houses are built in a row alongside the river. The scenery around this town is beautiful and the air is fresh. A sign at the port says Welcome to Purukcahu.
For those interested in history and culture there are the house of Temanggung Suropati and the grave of H.M. Seman. One can see the longhouses at Kunut Paraci, and Orung Apat in the Tanahsiang district. There is also the Fort of Beras Kuning, in the Murung district.
The waterfalls of Koloubesar and Poran are found not far from Purukcahu. The wildlife reserves Bararawan I and II in the area are very attractive.
Black Orchids
A Black Orchid park is found near the two villages Muaratuhup and Muaralaung, Tumbanglahung district.PurukcahuStone-caves are found at Liang Pandan, not far from Purukcahu.
Diamonds
People pan for diamonds at Labung village, on the Gula river, 15 kilometers from Purukcahu. Local people look for diamonds to add to their livehood.
People also pan for gold at a traditional mine at Masuparia village.
Hot-Springs
Hot-springs water for bathing and medication are found at Lawang Anak Andau village, Saripoi, north of Teweh Timur. At Gunung Angah, one can find an orchid forest in which various species of orchids can be seen in bloom during certain months.
Pangkalanbun
Pangkalabun is the capital of the Kotawaringin Barat regency, in the western part of Central Kalimantan.
Kotawaringin
The name Kotawaringin is taken from the ancient Kotawaringin kingdom, established by a descendant of a Banjar king, Sultan Mustaillah, who had four sons and a daughter. One of the sons was Pangeran Adipati Anta Kusuma, who, in 1679, founded the kingdom of Kotawaringin.
Eventually the capital of the kingdom was moved from Kotawaringin to a place named Sukabumi, which later became known as Pangkalanbun. The name Sukabumi fell into disuse and gradually disappeared from the people’s memory.
Nowadays, Pangkalanbun is a busy little town. It is nowadays an important transit point for both land and river traffic through the area. People traveling from West to East Kalimantan, or vice versa, always stop over in Pangkalanbun. Also people bound for Java or other islands, always travel via Pangkalanbun.
In this town, the old Palace of Pangkalanbun, now 200 years old, can still been seen, it is made of ulin-wood (iron-wood), in the style of Banjar. It is the only Banjar royal legacy found in Central Kalimantan. Oars, jewelry, music instruments, weapons, the royal standard, costumes and other items more than a hundred years old are kept in the old place. There is also an old 17th century Dutch cannon.
Mosque of Kyai Gede
The Mosque of Kyai Gede is the oldest mosque in the area being more than 300 years old. It is found in Kotawaringin Lama, the former seat of the Kotawaringin kingdom. Kotawaringin is now a district.
Taman Baru is a hunting park 21 kilometers from Pangkalanbun. A special hunting permit from the proper authorities, however, is required.
Tanjung Puting National Park
The Tanjung Puting National Park is very well known. It is a nature and wildlife reserve for lowland and swamp forests, inhabited by orang utans, owa-owa, bekantan and other primates.
Various bird species exists in the area of Sungaibuluh. Danau Burung (Bird Lake) is found here - a haven for many thousands of birds.
The southern part of Tanjungputing is a coastal area facing the Java Sea. To the north in the Kumai river, with very beautiful scenery. Pesut, fresh-water dolphins, and Duyung Dugong-dugong live in the water near the mouth of the river. Groups of rare turtles are found along the coast.
Tanjungkubu makes a good camping ground in the area of the wildlife reserve. The surroundings are very pleasant and beautiful.
Tanjungkeluang Beach lies adjacent to Tanjungputih.
Bogam Bay is popular and pleasant seaside resort.
Sampit
Sampit town, on the Sampit river, is the capital of a regency of the same name. It is known as the biggest timber port in Kalimantan and Indonesia. Here are found many sawmills which process the timber, cut from the forests in Kalimantan, for export.
Pasir Putih Beach
Pasir Putih Beach near Sampit is a pleasant and beautiful recreation area. In Sabangau Bay, one can go fishing, boating, or engage in other activities.
Pandaran Beach is a park on the seaside at the mouth of the Sampit river. It is quite unlike most other resorts in the area. Standing in the middle of the park, one see to one’s north the river emptying its water into the sea. To the south is the wide expanse of the Java Sea.
Kotawaringin Barat
Hunters can engage in their favourite pastime at the Sarayan River hunting. The site borders on the hunting park of Kotawaringin Barat.
Orchid Park
Around Lake Sembuluh, in the Sembuluh district near the small town of Telagapulang, is an orchid park with beautiful and rare orchids. In addition, there are the Sepan Biha salt-water springs, which is frequented by deer. Similar springs exist at Sepan Sepui.
The Orchid Park of Pembuangan Hulu, in the Hanau and Tumbangmanjul districts, is a natural forest in which a number of rare and beautiful orchid species grow.
The Bukit Raya Nature Reserve is in the upstream region of the Lamandau river on the Bukit Raya mountain (1,200meters). Kudangan and Mangkalan villages are near this reserve, which borders on the province of West Kalimantan.
Tumbang Sagu
A longhouse can be seen at Timbering Sagu, Mentaya Hulu district, Kotawaringin Timur. It can be reached from Palangkaraya over Sampit by boat in a week.
This betang was constructed in 1800 by Antang Kalang and his family, assisted by 500 workers. It was completed in seven years.
There is also the longhouses of Pendahara, far in the upstream regions of the Mendawai river. This region is located near the Schwaner Mountains on the boundary between Central and West Kalimantan.
A longhouse is also found in the small village of Rentapulut. This house lies in the upstream reaches of the Seruyang River, and as flanked by two small hills to its west and east.
Sandung and Lampudu structures are found in Tumbanglahang. They are considered sacred and infested with magic properties.
Boat-Stone
A big stone like a boat, called a Boat-Stone and often visited by tourists, is found near the small town Mentaya, 75 kilometers from Sampit.
Palangan Baru and Palangan Lama, in the upstream reaches of the Sampit river are settlements of isolated tribes. The people previously inhabited the area around the head waters of the Kenyala river deep in the hinterland. As the Palangan region was opened to transmigrants, the Dayaks were given a new settlement by the government, and land cultivation methods were introduced.
Tiwah
Death, the Dayaks belief, is considered a migration from the world of the living to the hereafter. Basically, the death ritual is to honor the soul simultaneously as a means to lead the soul of the dead towards the hereafter. Therefore, for the Dayaks of Central Kalimantan especially the Ngaju, the death ritual, called Tiwah is considered of the utmost importance.
The Ngaju believe that the soul Liaw of the deceased person keeps lingering in the family’s surroundings. Only after the ritual known as tiwah has been held is the soul free to travel to the hereafter, called Lewu Liaw or lewu tata.
The death ritual consits of two parts. First, the ceremony which is held immediately after a person’s death. Second, the tiwah, which is to lead the soul to the other world and concludes the death ritual.
Generally, this ceremony is held a year after the person’s death. Commonly it is held after the harvest season when there are not much work to do and food stocks are available. However, since a lot of money is involved, most people usually wait until enough has been saved, or else organize the event collectively. The ceremony may last for week or a month, depending on the wealth of the family.
The bones are collected and wrapped in a kakandin (red cloth, placed into a garantung gong), then stored in the Sandung, the special storage house. All the while, the gongs and drums are sounded and there is chanting.
The Upo or ceremony leader, speaks a formula, which is repeated by the basirs of panumba that is, the members of the group perfoming the ritual. The drums are again beaten, in the rhythm that changes with the mood of the narration.
First, the soul is awakened. Then, it is invited to put on proper clothes and offered various delicacies. It is also given a new name. Finally, the soul is led to the belay entay (waiting house), which is found on pasahan raung hill (the coffin).
After that, the Salumpuk liaw haring kaharingan are summoned from place named Balu Indu Rangkang. There are two souls representing the physical and the spiritual. The souls merge and travel to a place called Banama Nyaho. From there, the trip continues to Lewu
Tata Panungkup.
During the tiwah ceremony people sing and dance with the remains of the dead during the night. All the people participate, men and women, old and young.
The ceremony reaches its most dramatic stop during the slaughter of a buffalo as a sacrifice. If only one buffalo is killed, it is done a day before the cremation. If there are several, the killing maybe done either at once, or a day before cremation or one or a few at a time, until cremation takes places.
The buffalo is killed with spears, by several people, taking turns. The animal is tied to the animals pala, called sapundu and cannot escape, while it’s executioners aim their spears at its head and body.
The person who has the obligation to throw the first spear is the brother of the deceased. If he is indisposed, he can be represented by a cousin.
After the buffalo is dead, members of family trample on the carcass later, the meat of buffalo will be shared.
Commonly, the ceremony of cremation is held a day after the ceremony buffalo killing.
A cleansing ceremony is held three of seven days after tiwah ceremony, to drive all the evil spirit away. All the utensils used in the tiwah are thrown away, because they are considered to be attached to those evil spirits. The cleansing ceremony is led by a balian.
Shopping
Rattan plaitwork, hand-printed batik, paintings, carvings, hand-woven textiles.
See the archipelaGo listings for more information.
Source: http://www.archipelago-emag.com/provinces/c-kalim/c-kalimtour.html#muarateweh
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